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Keratin: Risky Choice or Blissful Experience

For years, legions of women around the world have battled with unwanted frizzy hair .  Living in humid areas only exacerbate the issue and that was exactly my concern when I decided to relocate from New York City to sunny Florida. I should've been concerned about moving related matters, but nothing demanded more thought than my naturally frizzy curly hair. Well, I guess luck was on my side!

 2007, the year I moved to Florida, something revolutionary in the hair industry changed the way we smooth frizzy hair forever. This product was called the Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatment, pioneered in Brazil and known there as Escova Progressiva.

I immediately trained and became certified. The results were amazing. My frizz was gone and my hair was smooth and silky like never before. It was life changing, a wish come true!

But great things also have their flaws. While Keratin is an amazing armor to win the war against frizz, there are concerns about one particular ingredient: Formaldehyde, considered to be a carcinogenic. According to OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration), it is known to cause cancer, throat/eyes irritation, coughing and wheezing.

What is keratin and what role does formaldehyde play in making the keratin treatment effective?

Keratin is an exceptionally strong protein made of amino acids. These acids dictate how flexible or hard it can be. Cysteine gives keratin its strength. Examples of hard keratin are the hooves in a horse or the tusks in elephants. Flexible keratin is found in hair and finger nails.

Formaldehyde is needed to hold the keratin molecules together. Thus, creating smooth and straight hair for up to three months. Treatments that are formaldehyde-free removes frizz but are less likely to last as long or relax curls.


What is the cost, procedure and maintenace?

The cost of the keratin depends on the salon, time spent, length and texture of your hair. I charged $100 an hour. It can run between $150.00 to $350.00.

The procedure depends on the manufacturer. Here is an example:

Hair is washed with clarifying shampoo


Some manufacturers require hair to be dried before keratin application, while others do not.

Some manufacturers require keratin to process between 20 and 30 minutes, while others do not require any processing time.

The next step is to dry the hair 80-100% with a paddle or round brush.
















Once dried, hair is flat ironed using a temperature between 380-450 degrees (see manufacturer's recommendations)














Some manufacturers require hair to be washed after flat ironing the hair. While others require hair not be washed for 4 hours or three/four days. Another requirement is to abstain from wearing pony tails and anything that would cause a bend or kink to the hair.

To maintain and encourage the keratin staying power, manufacturers suggest to shampoo hair with a sodium hydroxide free shampoo. Since keratin lasts up to three months, expect to repeat this service at least three times a year.

What about color?

It is suggested to perform color right before the keratin service as manufacturers or stylists, claim it can help seal the color. It may be so, but I differ. In my experience, when performing global color, keratin tends to lighten the color a bit. Now, older color tends to be revived because keratin adds lots of shine and smoothness to the hair.  Based on this, I prefer to perform global color services ten days after keratin. Consult with your stylist about your choices.


Does the keratin damage hair?

To the contrary, it heals and restore the hair by filling the cracks produced by environmental, mechanical or chemical stressors. Be aware that there are salons out there that play chemists. These salons mix their own formaldehyde with keratin. Too much formaldehyde is counter-intuitive and counter-productive. Leading to irreversible hair damage.

My recommendations

Formaldehyde infused keratin may pose a greater danger to the stylist performing the service, as they may be exposed to it daily. Clients, are only exposed to the fumes, if any, only when they get the service. To encourage protection I suggest stylists follow OSHA recommendations: use gloves, mask and a great air ventilation system when performing this service.

Despite the media coverage about its dangers and risks, keratin continues to be one of the most popular in salon services. I am a fan of its amazing results. I prefer the formaldehyde-free version despite the fact that it does not straighten hair as much. Frizz is my main concern and formaldehyde-free keratin does an awesome job!.

Here are some of my clients before and after pictures









Maria Arias
Owner of Nolan Vincent Salon & Spa


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